What Is Brow Lamination?

According to some beauty experts (like Anastasia Soare), our eyebrows have a bigger influence on the way we look than just about any other part of our faces. And although the skinny '90s eyebrow has been creeping back into style, the experts say fuller brows are here to stay.

"We’ve seen a surge of the brow lamination trend over the past two years, but it’s definitely here to stay for 2024," says Benefit national Brow and beauty authority Autumn Estelle.

Estelle also calls attention to a new twist on the trend. "'Baby brow lamination, where only the first inch or inch and a half of the start of your brow is laminated, is also starting to become trendy and it will continue to become more popular as another version of brow lamination," she says.

Noted. Ahead, find everything else to know about brow lamination, featuring advice from Estelle, along with celebrity brow artist and facialist René de la Garza and Studio Sashiko owner Shaughnessy Otsuji.

You probably know what laminated brows look like: tall, straight hairs that appear as if they were just brushed up with a spoolie and set with gel. The difference is, laminated brows keep their shape for days on end.

So how do they stay that way? The process "is done using a gentle perm solution, neutralizing lotion, and moisturizing treatment to temporarily relax and redirect your brow hairs upwards and into place," explains Otsuji.

Many like lamination because it can make naturally thin or sparse brows look thicker. "Because the hairs are relaxed, they appear longer, giving the effect of a larger brow shape," says Otsuji. "The hairs also become more pliable after lamination, making this a great service if you are looking for a ‘fluffy’ brow without the need for a brow gel, or if your natural brow hairs are curly, unruly, or point downwards.”

Often, lamination is combined with other brow services to further refine the shape. “Once the solutions have treated the brows, the lifted and laminated brows are groomed by waxing and tweezing to perfection by styling the new shape,” adds Garza.

This [is] a great service if you are looking for a ‘fluffy’ brow without the need for a brow gel, or if your natural brow hairs are curly, unruly, or point downwards.

So why is it called brow lamination? Think back to the lamination machines from grade school. “Lamination is the technique of overlaying a flat surface with a layer of plastic or some other protective material in an effort to keep it in place. In brow lamination, we follow a similar process,” explains Otsuji. “After applying the perm solution and neutralizing lotion to the hairs, the brow area is overlaid with plastic wrap to boost the chemical reaction and achieve the groomed end result. Because the result sees the hairs relaxed into such a uniform position, they appear set in place, or ‘laminated’, once complete!”

What Are the Benefits of Brow Lamination?

In addition to fluffier, fuller looking brows, "Lamination also gives the face a natural lifted effect," says Estelle. Plus, notes the expert, "The service is ideal for nearly all types of brows, from those with fine, thin hair structures to brows that are coarser and thicker."

It also takes a step out of your daily makeup and brow routine. "If you’re someone who likes to be low maintenance with your brows, then brow lamination is perfect for your daily beauty routine," adds Estelle.

Are There Any Risks to Brow Lamination?

Those with sensitive skin should communicate so to their brow pro. "Depending on the sensitivity of your skin, some people may experience some redness, swelling or itching after getting a brow lamination," notes Estelle. "It’s important to conduct a patch test at least 48 hours before the treatment to ensure your skin isn’t too sensitive to be treated."

How Long Does Brow Lamination Last?

Garza says that the biggest con to brow lamination is the fact that it only lasts six weeks, though you might be able to stretch that number higher if you’re lucky and smart with your beauty routine; this means no steam, sweat, makeup, or skin care products on the brow area for 24 hours, or retinol and exfoliators for 72 hours, according to Otsuji. “This allows the hairs to further set in their newly brushed-up place,” she adds. “Beyond that, incorporating a night oil into your aftercare routine will help keep the hairs nourished and healthy before your next appointment.”

The plus side of that is that if you aren’t into how your brows look post-lamination, you aren’t stuck with fluffed-up hairs forever. “Another thing to note is that immediately following the treatment, the brow hairs will appear quite flat, which can be a bit of an intense look—but after the first 24 hours have passed, you can start brushing them out into your desired shape where the overall look will soften,” Otsuji notes. “The initial look isn’t forever!”

Who Can Get Brow Lamination?

All hair types and face shapes can get in on the fluffy brow trend via lamination, though you do need to have natural brow hair. If you’re sparse in that department, another service such as eyebrow microblading would be a better fit.

However, consult your brow artist before you count yourself out. “The beauty of this service is that it can be customized to each person’s face shape, eye shape, and desired brow shape. Although the brushed-up, bold and fluffy brow tends to be quite popular at our studio, brows can be laminated in a variety of different ways,” says Otsuji. “If you prefer a more neat and tidy look, you can request for your brow hairs to be styled by being brushed to the side and tapered together at the ends. Laminating the brow hairs upwards can create a nice lift to the eye, especially when the natural hairs tend to grow downwards.”

“It's amazing for thin hair, because it strengthens and thickens the hair. It's great for thick hair because it tames and smoothes. For curly hair, it really irons out the texture and straightens,” says Garza. “When designing brows, there are five things I take into consideration: Evenness, proportion, density, hair growth pattern, and makeup style.”

Also, the more you laminate, the easier it becomes. “Those with more coarse or curly hair may not achieve the same results as those with straight, fine hair—and the results tend to fade a bit more quickly,” Otsuji explains. “However, as you continue to regularly have this treatment done, the better your hair will relax and laminate!” Which means fluffy, lifted, and defined brows are in your future.

Can You DIY Brow Lamination?

That magical fluffy brow does, in fact, require the help of professional-grade ingredients. “Which is why you should never DIY your brow lamination,” notes Garza. “Instead opt for receiving the service from a trained and certified brow lamination artist. This treatment does not hurt.”

That being said, you can get the look of brow lamination at home. Here's how to do it, according to Estelle:

First, remove the wand from tube of a brow gel, like Benefit 24-Hour Brow Setter. Let the product air-dry on the wand for around 30-45 seconds, like you would a lash glue, to allow the formula to get a bit tacky and thicken up.
benefit cosmetics 24-HR Brow Setter Clear Brow Gel
benefit cosmetics 24-HR Brow Setter Clear Brow Gel
Next, working one brow at a time, use the flat side of the applicator to lay an even layer of product on top of the brow.
Flip the applicator to the comb side and brush the product through the brows in an upward direction until you achieve your desired look. "Once the product dries the brows will be locked into place, so work with purpose!" advises Estelle.
If your brows are sparse or you just want to add a few natural-looking, hair-like strokes, use a firm micro-lining brow pencil like Benefit Precisely, My Brow Pencil. Estelle recommends using a shade one or two shades darker than your natural brow hair to reinforce using light, hair-like strokes.

benefit cosmetics Precisely, My Brow Pencil

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Lindy Segal is a beauty writer and editor. In addition to regularly contributing to BAZAAR.COM, she also writes for Glamour, People, WhoWhatWear, and Fashionista, among other publications. She lives in New York City with her Chihuahua mix, Barney.